Ken,
Thanks for your suggestions. What you describe is very close to what I am
already doing, though I do it with one light most of the time.
The reason I am looking at FP mode is that I am trying to use f2/f2.8 in a
relatively bright environment which is taking my shutter speed above the
sync speed. My testing was done with an Omnibounce on the flash as a
modifier and gave me close to the intended result just a bit flat looking.
What I am really trying to determine is if it worth buying an FL50r to take
the flash off axis and if it will trigger ok when used with a softbox (which
would depending on how I mount it affect how much of the front of the flash
is accessible). Also does anyone know if I can use an FL50r or an FL36r to
trigger the group or am I stuck using the pop up on the E-3?
If it doesn't work I shall keep on doing it the way that has worked before I
am just trying to give myself another option this year.
Dan S.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Norton
Subject: Re: [OM] Light Technique Question
My only comment is that FP mode and a light modifier will so greatly reduce
your working distance that you may end up not being able to make use of it.
Personally, I've been attempting to work the two-flash setup--one on-camera
with a stroboframe or the T45, and other stand mounted somewhere to the
side.
But for portrait season, you're probably going to be best off if you lock
into your maximum flash sync speed, and put a simple curved-bounce reflector
on a pair of off-camera flashes. This will give you enough light for 3-5m
flash-to-subject working distance and will address the harsh under-chin
shadows.
AG
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