Hi C.H., George and all,
From: "C.H.Ling" <ch_photo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Having read about so many 3D discussion from Dr T. I can't help myself to
>try some with my E-10, although I don't think I will go serious with 3D (at
>least at this moment) but it is fun to play with :-)
>
>http://www.accura.com.hk/temp/PX/P9034884_15s.html
>
>Red/cyan glasses required, don't know if everyone can see the effect well.
Very nice indeed! I do have the required glasses, and the effect is
excellent.
From: "DrT \(George Themelis\)" <drt-3d@xxxxxxx>
>(I always have a pair of anaglyph glasses around my computer)
Anaglyph... it has been a long time since I heard/read that word...
You probably know "where" I got my anaglyph glasses ;^)
From: "C.H.Ling" <ch_photo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Mike, you are right about the color, I'm still learning, I have used Dubois
>mode in StereoPhoto Maker which makes the stereo effect cleaner but also
>changed the color. Here is an image in normal red/cyan mode:
>
>http://www.accura.com.hk/temp/PX/P9034884_15As.html
Very nice again. A bit less comfortable to see, but with great effect and
nice colour. I think this red/cyand technique work best with monochrome
images.
>I think the best way of viewing 3D image is 3D slider viewer, the color
will
>not be affected and retain a high resolution but it need additional
>investment and not able to share in the net.
It's easy... with slide film. I used a couple of cheap "backlit viewers"
(don't know the proper English word for that) centered manually. Works fine!
In the future, I plan to use a couple of slide projectors, with polarizer
filters rotated 90º between them -- with the proper glasses (I believe it's
the standard on theatres) should be impressive!
Now, speaking of 3D... I'd love to make some more again! I have a "twin
camera support bar" which was never intended for 3D, but I used in
astro-phoography. I understand both cameras should have the same form-factor
in order to avoid slight differences in POV (vertically, I mean). About the
lenses, they should be identical -- not only brand, "nominal" focal length
and model, but also optical formulation (it may vary along production,
changing _actual_ focal length). Since I won't be shooting fast moving
subjects, perfect sync is not a critical issue for me -- pressing both
releases with two fingers would suffice.
Yes, I own "too many" cameras, but not so many duplicates... within the OM
system, I can get two "identical" bodies without problem -- I assume being
one a OM-1 and the other a OM-1n it's OK. But having into account design
changes thru time, I can't say the same about lenses... the only real
duplicates I own are 50/1.8's -- as expected. Two of the miJ variety (or
should I tell between type 4 and 5???) and two silvernosed.
On the other hand, a couple of OMs on my bar can't get closer than 200mm
between centres of the lenses -- or 145mm with an uncomfortable trick.
Shouldn't that be too much for a natural effect with 50mm lenses? Another
option, if I'm not mistaken, would be using wide angles -- no duplicates
here, but the 28/3.5 is cheap enough (and a very good performer, better than
the 2.8 IME) to purchase a second unit just for this purpose.
In the meanwhile, the other "populated" system I own is rangefinders... a
couple of dirt cheap FED-5's with a couple (yes, I own two) of Jupiter-12's
(an excellent 35/2.8) may work fine.
But... wait a minute... I still own a XA2 and a XA3 -- essentially the same
camera, with 35mm lens. And I could get them much closer...
George, what do you think about this? ;^)
Thanks a lot in advance,
--
Carlos J. Santisteban Salinas
IES Turaniana (Roquetas de Mar, Almeria)
<http://cjss.sytes.net/>
--
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