On Wed, Nov 4, 2009 at 12:55 PM, Ken Norton <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> Ooo... I hope people don't mind that we talk about film stuff here :-)
>>
>
> We're going to get drummed out of here by the digital crowd.
>
>
>> So Ken, I am assuming that the Zone Master II + Stop Clock is similar to my
>> RH Designs Analyser Pro - so in your initial test strips, do you just divide
>> by 1/2 or bias one way or another depending on the proposed paper grade?
>>
>
> They are similar enough. I'm not sure I understand your question, but I
> have my steps set at 1/4 stop. When running a test strip, I start out by
> offsetting my starting exposure down 4 steps from metered recommendation.
> Then I run 8 steps in the test strip.
>
Starting exposure of 4 steps is 1 stop down, or 1/2 of the exposure
:-) exactly what I was asking! F-stop printing is so much easier to
talk about!
>
>> For example, with the Analyser Pro, I'd take a highlight and shadow
>> reading. If the neg is average contrast, it will give a timing based on
>> grade 2 and peg the two readings on Zone II and VIII. If the neg is not of
>> average contrast, I will have to, for example, move to grade 1+ for the two
>> readings to sit at the right places. So in this case, should I pre-bias and
>> assume that I will need may be 1/4 stop more on the low grade exposure and
>> do the test strips that way? It makes logical sense and my test last night
>> seems to support that. Of course with split grade, I suppose the idea is
>> that we can play around with
>> different ratio and have different interpretation. I am thinking that
>> this must be similar to doing curve adjusting on digital....
>
>
> Your mental approach to this is similar to mine. I haven't "arrived" yet in
> this. As a general rule, you start off soft and tweak the highs and lows as
> necessary. With the meter, I will multi-spot the high, low and mid-tone
> values. Then I'll adjust the exposure and contrast controls until the dots
> land where I want them to. Unfortunately, that usually means the midtone dot
> gets moved to the wrong spot.
>
> So you pick two out of three. I usually pick the highlight and midtone
> dots. I get them where I want and choose that as my starting exposure. Then
> if I need to move the dark dot further to the dark, I add a touch more grade
> 5 exposure.
>
Got it. Thanks. It's something I can play with...
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