Parts of it have already been done. The Minolta A1 (even with its
little 320x240 screen) did a fairly credible job of showing what the
exposure would look like in real time as exposure parameters were
varied. The software was well done but the the screen technology of 5
years ago wasn't completely up to the task. Maybe today it is. It can
also focus on any point on the screen selected by the joystick control
on the back of the body. The screen can also tilt up and down but not
swivel. Gridded screen too on demand. Too bad Minolta died. Maybe
they'd have advanced the technology by now.
Chuck Norcutt
Willie Wonka wrote:
> How about viewfinder abolishment...especially the OM's...:) I was
> never able to keep the horizons straight with it. It was bringing
> the image too close to my eye thus depriving me from the opportunity
> to "see the whole picture". I still lament about the image on the
> ground glass of my Yashika D.
>
> You can have a nice high resolution articulating display that you can
> stare at from any angle and distance you wish. And if your Live View
> is really well implemented, you will never ever need the histogram in
> any shape or form
>
> Picture this classic example of a person in front of a white wall on
> a bright sunny day:
>
> You point the camera, compose and then play with the manual controls
> to get the optimal image. You increase the speed and the image on
> the screen gets darker, showing you exactly how the final image would
> be. Makes it for an easy low/high key...dof, etc. By manually
> adjusting the settings, I can have the face exposed any way I want
> to. Or if I see that the texture of the white wall is clipped
> completely and I am not happy about it, I could adjust my settings at
> the point right before the clipping occurs. But see, I do know where
> the clipping occurs and by how much...I see it in real time, dont
> need yet another graph or symbol on the screen to tell me that.
>
> But if you really kent live without the technology, you can just
> touch the place on the display where you want the camera to focus on
> then switch to exposure mode, touch the part that you want to have
> exposed "correctly", take a last look at the screen to see if you can
> live with the over/underexposed areas and snap...or you can use
> filters, or you can take few carefully selected images to compose and
> hdr image... You can go back to focus mode, slide your finger over
> different areas on the screen that represent distant and close by
> objects, and see how dof changes, go back to exposure mode, slide
> your fingie again and see how the exposure changes...of course there
> are many other combinations, this is just a conversation starter
> intended to move your imagination.
>
> My take on it. BTW, these advances wont come to full fruition any
> soon, or at least not until customers stop demanding peepholes on
> their cameras.
>
> Boris
>
>
>
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