First question:
what color gamut can your displays display, and are the screens color
calibrated?
Second: I use the "autumn hues.pf2" picture style when using the 5D,
you should be able to upload the style to the camera. To my taste the
colour is much better. For the 5D I also see I have to compensate at
least +1 stop when using aperture priority. I use the canon software
for developing by the way, it is only there one can opt for the
"autumn hues"... don't know about aperture.
I'll attach the pf2, it is small anyway.
Iwert
2010/5/11 SwissPace <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:
> I have now reinstalled my computer equipment back into the office I
> share with my wife - we had to move out due of there to the house
> needing a total rewire and while they did that I got cat6 ethernet cable
> put in every room. anyway now I can print images again.
>
> I have been less than pleased with my results from the 5D2, its not that
> they are bad just not better than the E-3 which according to the web it
> should be clearly capable of delivering better images than I can coax
> out of it. So going back to basics please correct me if my reasoning or
> thoughts are wrong
>
> I shoot raw so the only variables I need to consider when taking the
> photo are aperture, shutter, iso and focus - I just need to watch the
> metering and focus and forget about all other functions.
>
> Once the raw file is copied to the computer the raw processing play a
> part so assuming the original file is good I should be able to produce a
> good print. Now with Aperture3 ( I will stay with this because the raw
> processing is good enough and the benefits of the catalog outweigh any
> minuses) and calibrated screens I see colours in the print that pretty
> much match the image on one screen, however the images just don't look
> as good printed and when I study the print very closely I see lots of
> what appears grain.
>
> When I say one screen, I have a dual display setup with a 24" for main
> display and a 20" 1600x1200 rotated for showing the image. On teh 24"
> dell the image is quite soft and unfortunately if I up teh sharpness
> settinbg on it it makes the text look horrible, a great screen for
> multimedia but not so good for photo's. The 20" displays the image nice
> and sharp.
>
> Last night I played with the nik sharpener pro 3.0 (demo ) plugin for
> aperture and it allows the sharpening to be done just before print (as
> you all advise) you tell it where to output it e.g display or print then
> if print what type of paper and then you have some sliders to play with
> to vary strength etc. The thing that puzzles me is that sharpening
> should be done at the output size and as I am working on the raw file I
> don't see where to tell the nik software I will print at A4 although I
> do tell it the resolution of the print eg 2880x1440. Is anyone else
> using this software
>
> Do I need to downsize before I sharpen, I found a nice review here
> <http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/reviews/plugins/sharpening_nik3.html#box_sharpening>
> but I am still at a loss. The reason I am posting is the hope that
> someone has some tips to save me wasting paper on test prints..
>
> This is sort of ON topic as I want to get the best from my OM glass and E-3
>
> Thanks IanW
> --
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>
WW05_AUTUMN_HUES.pf2
Description: Binary data
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