Do the trial and error work using your digital camera. Establish your
standard distances and then translate the exposure information to your
film cameras. Remember that your digital camera (an E-3?) has
considereably higher synch (1/180 IIRC) speed than an OM-1 (1/60). When
doing your digital trial and error work be sure to adhere to the shutter
speed limitations of the OM-1.
Also remember my admonition of several days ago. When you take a flash
picture there are always two exposures... one from the flash but also
one from the ambient light. Be aware that the OM-1 at 1/60 second has a
very long minimum synch time. When shooting in daylight this can be a
problem since 1/60 second in full daylight even at f/16 or f/22 is still
a significant ambient exposure. Sometimes ND filters are required for
slow synch speeds.
When you get through with this calibration you may desire to abandon the
OM-1 and keep on with the E-3. :-)
Dr. Flash
On 9/10/2010 3:01 PM, Brian Swale wrote:
> For my writing project, I am doing close-ups of plant parts.
>
> Some of these (I might post examples) are likely to be fairly small and with a
> black velvet background.
>
> Other authors have used this technique to good effect.
>
> If I were to use flash, I think I can foresee big problems ahead as an auto
> unit tries to illuminate the dark background.
>
> My thoughts now are to use a totally manual film camera such as the OM1,
> with a T20 unit on a bracket, and a reflector to balance the lighting, and by
> trial and error come to one standard distance (or a set of standards) that
> will
> illuminate the subject *only* and ignore the background. The subject might
> be sitting on glass over the background, with lighting always at an angle
> such that reflections are avoided.
>
> Comment?.
>
> Brian Swale.
--
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