Interesting. Reminds me a bit of Yellowstone.
Chuck Norcutt
On 2/18/2011 8:37 PM, Michael Collins wrote:
> I suspect that with limited time you'll choose only the South Island,
> especially if you have just two weeks. Back in 2007 I did a crazy two-week
> NZ/Oz trip from Toronto - visiting family and friends - and only saw a tiny
> part of the North Island in my week in NZ. First major trip with my E-1, and
> at the start I missed some good photo opportunities - foolishly forgot that
> batteries don't last a year or two as with OMs!
>
> Herewith a distillation of my notes to the folks back home, in case they're
> of interest to the group. Personal stuff excised for the most part. Kiwis
> and Aussies are welcome to refute anything stated. A couple of Rotorua-area
> pictures from the trip at
> <http://www.galleries.ownvolition.com/index.php?gallery=New%20Zealand%2C%20N
> ovember%202007>; te rest are still awaiting Lightroom/Photoshop treatment
> three years later :-(
>
> BTW, I was flying on points, hence the insane routings on Air Canada/United.
>
> Michael
>
> <<
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 0 (the preamble)
>
> Wednesday 11/21 12:25 EST - Friday 11/23 05:10 NZ
> Toronto-Chicago-San Francisco-Auckland
>
> New Zealand
> Auckland: Fri. Nov. 21 - Mon. Nov. 26
> Kerikeri/Bay of Islands: Tue. Nov 27 - Wed. Nov. 28
> Rotorua: Thu. Nov. 29 - Sat. Dec. 1
>
> Australia
> Melbourne: Sun. Dec. 2 - Mon. Dec. 3
> Sydney: Tue. Dec. 4 - Fri. Dec. 7
>
> Saturday 12/8 09:30 AE - 20:57 EST
> Sydney-Honolulu-Los Angeles-Denver-Toronto
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 3 / Fri Nov 23 (Auckland)
>
> Arrived in the dark, so not much to see of the city coming in.
>
> No free wireless connectivity at the airport - skip it for now. Got a
> Vodafone pay-as-you-go SIM for the phone. Hire car was ready, black Holden
> Viva, whatever that is. I've reserved an automatic, to minimise
> distractions.
>
> Easy drive to the city, staying with my cousin Philip and his (Texas-born)
> wife Norma. Beautiful flat [condominium, for those in the non-English
> speaking world] facing onto the Auckland Domain (a large park).
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 4 / Sat Nov 24 (Auckland)
>
> Did the tourist thing at "Kelly Tarlton's Antarctic Encounter and Underwater
> World", okay but nothing special. Lunch at a nice cafe in Mission Bay, then
> back.
>
> Spent a few hours at the Auckland Museum, which is perched on the highest
> point of the Domain. Ground floor is NZ history, very well presented, and
> there is a special exhibit on Charles Darwin, also very interesting. First
> floor is natural sciences, skipped that, and second floor is a war museum,
> raced through that as 5:00 closing approached.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 6 / Mon Nov 26 (Auckland)
>
> Starbucks to get e-mail at Wi-Fi hotspot. Not cheap - NZ$10/hour. Did a Web
> search for free wireless access; seems there's basically no such thing here.
>
> Explored downtown. Took ferry to Devonport, a seaside community on the North
> Shore.
>
> Did the Maritime Museum after that, for a couple of hours. Very good
> presentations on early Polynesian voyagers, their boats, their navigation,
> etc. Starting to get a real feel for early NZ history.
>
> Out to Irish pub for dinner, for a change. Guinness is Guinness.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 7 / Tue Nov 27 (north to Kerikeri)
>
> Say goodbye to all, get on the road north - late, it's 10:45. Hope to get to
> ... Kerikeri by supper time. I'm taking slower routes up the west side of
> the North Island. These "highways" are two lanes, speed limit 100 in the
> country and 80 or 60 or 50 in towns. Philip said limits are enforced but you
> won't be stopped for 10 over.
>
> Lots of road construction (just like home), so all sorts of speed
> restrictions. There are only occasional passing lanes, so it's a good thing
> I pretty much have the road to myself going north. Twisty turny roads...
> Sharper curves are signed with a lower speed limit; experience shows you can
> safely do 15 over that (on dry roads). Through one of the national parks,
> the highway is all switchbacks up and down, so I missed the views whilst
> concentrating on the road.
>
> Stopped at the Kauri museum on the way. Kauri is a native tree that grows
> huge, rather like redwoods, and lives long - some of them thousands of
> years. You may imagine a Kauri museum as a collection of big, dead trees,
> then - but you'd be wrong. Or you'd have been thinking of a Joni Mitchell
> song... The trees grow huge and straight, and the wood is relatively hard,
> so used in all sorts of construction, furniture, even shipbuilding. The
> museum also has exhibits showing how the felling and sawing of the trees was
> done over the years, from pitsaws to more modern sawmills.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 8 / Wed Nov 28 (Kerikeri/Bay of Islands)
>
> [My friend] Eila's ancestors include some of the early missionaries to NZ,
> and her grandfather was instrumental in the establishment of the Trust that
> manages the area where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840 between
> (some of) the Maori and the British. Apparently this grandfather was trying
> to raise funds for the purchase of the area, happened to mention it to the
> then-Governor General, and the next thing you know the GG had purchased the
> land and had a Trust set up to manage it. Eila's on the current Board of
> Directors. So I got the "director's tour" of the Trust lands and a good
> recitation of the history from a very knowledgeable guide.
>
> Took the short ferry across the bay to Russell, which is more of a
> tourist/resort town. Strolled around to look at the architecture, bought
> some veg for supper at the organic market, took the ferry back, and headed
> "home". I paid a quick visit to the historic Mission houses and to a
> reconstructed Maori village [I think - the information centre was closed] on
> the edge of Paihia.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 9 / Thu Nov 29 (south to Rotorua)
>
> Bit of a fright when I filled up with petrol for the trip and the bill was
> $76. Clearing before Auckland to give a false sense of security, then heavy
> rain through Auckland, then clear most of the rest of the way to Rotorua.
> It's about 500km overall, about 7 hours on the road, so 9:00-5:00 with a few
> stops. Very comfortable with driving here now, I'll have to be very careful
> when I get back home.
>
> The B&B owners are an interesting couple, Trevor (originally a Scot) and
> Trinka (a Korean). Turns out Trevor lived in South Korea for some 30 years.
> Hints of Basil Fawlty here :-) .
>
> Internet access (wired) at the backpackers' hostel is NZ$2 per half hour -
> seems to be the going rate.
>
> Guinness with bangers and mash - the universal meal. Passable "Irish" music
> from the house duo.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 10 / Fri Nov 30 (Rotorua)
>
> Spent most of the day walking around the volcanic area called Waimangu.
> Thermal springs and pools, small geysers (nothing dramatic), tour of the
> lake formed after a volcanic eruption on the 19th century. Lots of history
> and geology.
>
> Did the sorta-touristy thing in the evening with a visit to the Mitai Maori
> Village. Explanation of traditions, traditionally cooked meal, cultural
> presentation/show of Maori song, dance, etc. - vaguely worthwhile.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 11 / Sat Dec 1 (Rotorua)
>
> Checked out, wandered around town, spent time at the Rotorua Museum for more
> culture and history, then on the road (have to get back to Auckland by this
> evening).
>
> On the way (well, not really, it's in the opposite direction, but close
> enough...) visited more volcanic / thermal stuff at Orakei Korako.
>
> Back to Auckland, trip seems much shorter than the drive down on Thursday.
> Got rid of the hire car (to save time in the morning), lazy so ate at the
> hotel. Crappy Internet access - expensive, sold by the 10s of megabytes so
> you have to guess your usage in advance, poor wireless signal, used up my
> 20MB purchase in about 20 minutes.
>>>
>
> Just FYI for the Victorians and NSW folks, here's some continuation across
> the Tasman.
>
> <<
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 12 / Sun Dec 2 (to Melbourne)
>
> [At the airport] went to rent a SIM card to have a local phone for the next
> two days, discovered that bad customer service is universal, finally
> successful.
>
> Took the tram into town to explore [Melbourne is famous for its trams]. Took
> the hour-long "circle" tram around the city centre to get a general idea of
> the place. Melbourne is famous for a lively restaurant scene along all the
> little laneways between the streets. It's a Sunday, so things are not so
> lively. Good reason for a return visit.
>
> Met Wayne Harridge for supper and a discussion of photography.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 13 / Mon Dec 3 (Melbourne)
>
> One of the attractions in Victoria [the state, for those of you who studied
> geography in a previous lifetime rather than this one] is the Great Ocean
> Road, which runs westward from Melbourne along - wait for it - the coast.
> Built originally to make it easier to bring timber from the forests to
> sawmills in the city - the earlier methods were to haul it further inland to
> the main road, or haul it to ships on the coast.
>
> It would be a full-day trip to go from Melbourne out to the major
> attractions (rock formations just off the coast, called the Twelve
> Apostles). Jill offered me the Land Cruiser to drive out, but I thought I
> wouldn't see too much whilst concentrating on driving a noisy truck out and
> back, so I opted for a coach tour. Again a little touristy, but got to see
> the area better, with a few stops at beaches and rainforest reserves. And
> (good) running commentary all the way on history and geography.
>
> The driver mentioned on the way that we could book ahead for a helicopter
> ride at the Twelve Apostles. Never been in a helicopter before, but sounded
> like fun. Booked the longest - 15 minutes - because the shorter, six-minute
> ride sounded like just enough time to take off and land. Only two real
> safety rules: "tail rotors kill people" and "don't open the door in flight".
> Amazing trip! I'm now addicted to helicopter trips, so will have to do all
> sort of green, eco-y things to stay carbon-neutral :-) .
>
> The "Apostles" (originally called the "Sow and Piglets", apparently, from
> the relative sizes) are rock pillars left standing when wave action eats
> away at the coast, leaving slightly harder rock intact. Eventually the wave
> action eats away at the base of these pillars too, leading to collapse.
> There were once 18 or so Apostles, now only 11, of which two look a bit
> precarious. Back to Melbourne mostly inland, not so interesting.
>
> Small "north African" restaurant in Port Melbourne called Kamel, very good.
> Melbourne is actually the largest Greek city outside Greece, but I have the
> Danforth, so no real need to go Greek here.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 14 / Tue Dec 4 (to Sydney)
>
> Meandering drive up to where [my friends live, in Northern Beaches area],
> Bayview, lovely house looking north into the bay. Bayview is a bit north of
> Narrabeen, south of Pittwater, for you map readers or Google Earthers. Lazy
> afternoon with just the right amount of good wine; good to know oenophiles!
> Heavy rains in the late afternoon, and even some hail - unusual in summer.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 15 / Wed Dec 5 (Sydney)
>
> Overcast and a bit rainy, but we stayed with the plan to tour all of the
> Northern Beaches nonetheless. Weather got better. Lunch bayside. Down to
> Manly late afternoon. Said goodbye and hopped on the ferry to Circular Quay
> (main ferry terminal for Sydney, at north end of CBD - Central Business
> District).
>
> Met [friends] for supper, then went over to the Opera House (Playhouse
> theatre) for the Athol Fugard play "Sizwe Banzi is Dead". Very interesting,
> very good. A surprise to all of us, as we had not read the programme
> closely, it was presented in French (with English surtitles) - the (British)
> director is now based in Paris.
>
> Petersham [is] my next home for a couple of days.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 16 / Thu Dec 6 (Sydney)
>
> Heavy rain most of the morning, so I didn't go out until nearly lunchtime.
> Into the City by bus, ferry out to Fort Denison which is a tiny island in
> the inner harbour, built (with convict labour) originally for defence but
> over the years had primarily been used for navigation aids like lighthouse
> and tide measurement. Lunch with a glass of wine looking west over the
> harbour towards the - famous - bridge and Opera House. The only diner, very
> peaceful.
>
> Decided I'd do the bridge climb tomorrow. It's a commercial venture, they
> take groups up every 15 minutes daytime / dusk / night, either up to the
> summit via the eastern upper span and back down on the western, or similarly
> up but then down ladders to the lower span and back on that. You'd have to
> see it to know what I mean about the difference. Don't know how I'm going to
> do this with my fear of heights, so this may be a stupid decision.
>
> Back to shore, quick stroll through the Museum of Contemporary Art but
> nothing that really interested me. I thought Chris had said "any bus except
> the 470" to return, but there are so many departing CBD that I decided for
> safety to wait for the 413 I came in on.
>
> Supper (plus a good BYO choice from the bottle shop just down the road) with
> Chris at semi-outdoor table in nice Italian place nearby in Leichhardt.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: day 17 / Fri Dec 7 (Sydney)
>
> Lovely sunny day, good weather forecast. Need to be at the bridge by 3:00.
> Spent the time before that at the Maritime Museum. On-board tours through a
> naval gunship, a submarine, and a replica of (Captain Cook's) Endeavour.
> Special exhibits on notable shipwrecks (a big part of the country's earlier
> history, apparently) and Ötzi, the mummy discovered some year ago in a
> glacier in South Tyrol (Alps in Austria/Italy). Not sure the maritime
> relevance of the latter. Lunch harbourside at Darling Harbour. No alcohol,
> as you have to be under .05 (and "of sound mind" too) to do the bridge
> climb.
>
> Preparations for the climb take the best part of an hour. Essentially you
> can't take anything up with you except what they issue. You put on a
> jumpsuit over your clothes, plus rainpants and a hooded poncho in wet
> weather. Optionally a cap clipped to the jumpsuit with a lanyard, then a
> lanyard on your glasses if worn, a belt-like harness with a pouch for a
> radio, and finally a tether from harness to a "traveller" that will follow
> along the safely rail beside you all the way and keep you attached while
> moving along. And then the radio headset. All dressed, you climb up ladders
> to a small platform simulating a bridge catwalk. So far so good. Radio,
> connected to the headset (bone conduction, so ears are not covered and you
> can still hear everything around you), radio check, good to go.
>
> It started raining just before we went outdoors to walk to the entrance for
> the climb. By the time we'd gone up the first stairs to get to the catwalk
> under the approach ramps, it was pouring, and a thunderstorm was moving in.
>
> The catwalk are over roads before you get to the south pylon, and are in
> some places solid (planks) and in other places open steel mesh. They are
> about a metre wide, with metre-high handrails both sides and the safety line
> for the "traveller" on one side or the other. This was the tough part - I
> really wasn't sure I was going to make it, I've never felt so nervous in my
> life. Plus it was wet and the wind was getting up.
>
> By the time we got to the south pylon (where the approach ramp ends and the
> span proper starts) the thunderstorm was in full swing, and we had to wait
> it out. More and more groups arrived, and if the waiting area is full they
> start sending the first groups back and that's it for the climb - no refunds
> but on request a voucher for another attempt. We waited about 45 minutes,
> and were minutes from being sent back when it cleared a bit and we were
> given the "go". I was still nervous enough that I was almost hoping it would
> be cancelled :-( .
>
> Up a series of ladders, in the open outside the pylon, to get to the start
> of the upper span. I guess I had calmed down a bit at this point, even
> though this should have been scarier than the catwalks. We had been taken up
> the ladders on the western side so that they could get more of the waiting
> groups up quickly, and then had to cross the width of the bridge on a
> catwalk to get to the eastern side for the climb. Not fun! Traffic and
> trains below, far below.
>
> The climb to the summit, from this point, is easy and feels very safe.
> Fantastic view. I was still a bit nervous on the way down, especially down
> the ladders and across the catwalks, but managed fine.
>
> Recommended.
>
> *** NZ/Australia 2007: very long day 18 / Sat Dec 8 (back to Toronto)
>
> What to say? It'll be 30+ hours from Sydney airport arrival to being back
> home, and I need a few hours sleep in the middle to turn it into two days.
>
> Off to the airport at 7:15 for the 9:30 flight. Sydney to Honolulu,
> interesting chat all the way with an IBM Australia senior project manager.
> At Honolulu, walked the greatest distance between any two points to transfer
> between Star Alliance partners Air Canada and United. Left Sydney Saturday
> morning, it's now Friday night. Slept most of the way (i.e, for about four
> hours) to Los Angeles. Saw the famous HOLLYWOOD signs on the Hollywood Hills
> - impressive even from a distance.
>
> Off the plane and straight into an alternate universe - tinny Christmas
> carols pouring out of the ceiling and smothering me as I enter the arrival
> gate. LAX is supposed to be a nightmare, but this time the next flight (to
> Denver) is from exactly the same gate as the arrival, in fact even the same
> aircraft. Denver is (unsurprisingly) in the midst of a snowstorm, 8" of snow
> expected, current visibility 1/4 mile. Gonna be flight delays. Now in
> linguistic alternate universe: "uh huh", "you bet".
>
> Denver airport has kindly provided free Wi-Fi access, as long as you don't
> mind a bit of advertising. All good, except they block port 25 so you can't
> use SMTP and therefore can't send e-mail. And customer service is 9-5
> Monday-Friday only. And the FAQ has no questions and only answers to
> questions you wouldn't have asked anyway. And there's no paid alternative
> network like Boingo. Thank you ever so much DIA - one hand giveth and the
> other taketh away.
>>>
>
> On 2/18/11 7:18 PM, usher99@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
>> Now understand this - Brian lives in one of the most astonishing
>> environments
>> on the planet. It is more or less civilised (good food and beer), they
>> speak
>> English of a strangled sort and you look out of a hotel room each
>> morning, over
>> the lake, and choke. Go there. ASAP.
>>
>> The CVO has been paying attention. She had been thinking of a NZ trip
>> and now seems set on it.
>> Would be nice to meet Brain if possible and have a Speight's Old
>> Dark. If all works out can likely swing a couple weeks --perhaps Dec?
>> Will pay close attention to any suggestions on places/timing. Hard to
>> believe the last trip even close was to a meeting in Cairns in
>> 2000--only brought my OM2 and 3 lenses. Will bring an OM kit this
>> time too.
>> The CVO has Spoken, Mike.
>
>
--
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