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Re: [OM] I blew my moon shot

Subject: Re: [OM] I blew my moon shot
From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:11:04 -0400
Why does pressing the highlight button work for the moon?  I'd expect it 
to work for the bride's dress but the moon has a much lower albedo than 
that.

Chuck Norcutt


On 3/24/2011 11:13 AM, Ken Norton wrote:
> For digital photography, getting a proper exposure of the moon is really
> dirt easy:
>
> Use the flashing highlights function in the image review. If moon is not
> flashing, adjust exposure brighter and try again. Once you have a flashing
> moon, adjust the exposure downward and try again until the moon no longer
> flashes. There you go. Any brighter and you lose the texture of the moon
> surface. Any lower and you lose non-lunar detail.
>
> With film photography, it is highly recommended to spot meter the moon
> itself. Adjust exposure so it is about two stops above middle exposure. Or
> with the OM-3 or OM-4 series cameras press the highlight button. Doesn't get
> any easier than that!
>
> One caution about digital photography and photographing the moon. When the
> moon is still low on the horizon the color will skew warm. The problem is
> probably more specific to Olympus and Panasonic cameras, but the yellows
> will clip even though you think you have headroom. They trick is to
> expose-to-the-right, minus one stop. DO NOT go closer than one-stop to
> clipping. You need that headroom! That's why the flahing highlights minus
> one stop work. The flashing highlights actually kick in within that last
> stop of latitude, so you'll actually end up with a bit more margin than if
> you went specifically on the scientific numbers.
>
> Again, this is very specific to Olympus and Panasonic digital cameras
> because of the way the two green pixels are processed during the merge.
> PanyOlympus uses four pixels to determine the RGB value, whereas nearly all
> other cameras use only three. Where they calculate value at the junction of
> a single green, single blue and single red sensor, PanyOlympus uses the
> junction of four neighboring pixels. Normally, this is no big deal (other
> than the loss of resolution inherent in four vs three pixels for each
> resulting pixel location), but the way the merge occurs, there is a loss of
> headroom in the yellows. Yellows and oranges will clip. It is a mistaken
> belief that because there are 2X the green pixels on the sensor that all
> cameras use 2 green, 1 blue and 1 red pixel in the algorithm to determine a
> single pixel. That is really only true with Olympus, Panasonic and some
> Kodak sensored cameras. Nearly ALL other cameras use one 1 green, 1 blue and
> 1 red pixel. It's an intersection thing. If you roll your own conversion
> with DCRAW, you can override this and create your own method if you choose.
>
> AG
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