Most of what passes for real estate photos is truly awful. He won't need to do
much to beat the competition.
> -------Original Message-------
> From: Bob Whitmire <bwhitmire@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: Olympus Camera Discussion <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [OM] (OT, kinda) Helping a nephew
> Sent: Jun 16 '11 14:31
> Thanks, Chuck, sounds like good advice. I'm not sure how he plans to handle
> the post work, and whether clients want files or prints. I don't think he
> knows what he's getting into. <g> But then neither did I when I figured I
> could take pretty pictures and sell them to tourists. Sigh.
> On Jun 16, 2011, at 12:44 PM, Chuck Norcutt wrote:
> > The camera is OK but can the lens and the flash.
> > In place of the flash put a 2-way level in the hot shoe instead. To
> > avoid perspective distortion it's critical that the camera be level
> > front to back and side to side. To take in the room and avoid the need
> > to tilt up and down use a 24mm equivalent lens. Set the camera height at
> > the midpoint between floor and ceiling. Typically a high rise tripod is
> > not required unless you're doing a place with cathedral ceilings.
> > Trying to use flash will be frought with problems due to the good old
> > inverse square law. To do it requires multiple studio lights, huge
> > diffusers and, unless you have powerful modeling lights on the flash
> > units lots of trial and error setting up the lights.
> > With digital it's easier to use the tripod for long exposures as
> > required and handle the inevitable dynamic range problems (dark indoors,
> > bright sun outdoors) with multiple exposures and HDR techniques. The
> > following is a 2 or 3 exposure HDR image just done on PS by manually
> > masking different layers. Note the properly exposed sunlit outdoors and
> > the non-blown sunlit areas on the closet doors. The sun was nowhere
> > near as weak as the photo implies.
> > <http://www.chucknorcutt.com/realestate.php>
> > Color balance can be very problematic with mixed sunlight, fluorescent
> > and incandescent sources. Avoid turning on the fluorescents... if
> > possible. However, proper presentation of an interior architectural
> > shot is normally done with lights on... another source of blown areas
> > and possible need for multiple exposures and HDR techniques.
> > This Tokina 12-24/4 (ver II) is a highly rated lens as was its ver I
> > predecessor. This lens is $549 at B&H but the ver I can probably be had
> > for $400 if you can find one in Canon mount. You could probably also
> > find one on the bay either new or used.
> > The tripod doesn't need to be huge or fancy but it does need controls
> > that allow accurate positioning, leveling and locking without disturbing
> > the intended setting... sometimes a tough order.
> > I'll probably be incommunicado the rest of the day but may get a chance
> > to look for additional questions tomorrow.
> > ps: Also have him go buy a basic book on architectural photography.
> > But avoid loaning him the 4x5. :-)
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