I've been using deconvolution sharpening on a few images, but have
generally found that for some reason it doesn't do so well on Olympus E-1
files, nor on DMC-L1 files. As a general rule, deconvolution sharpening
works best on gaussian blur style blurring. The Oly/Pany files are more of
a smearing in the blurring.
That doesn't mean I avoid it, though. Far from it. But but I haven't gotten
as much success as Moose has from it.
Speaking of sharpening, I rather am impressed with the bilateral sharpening
built into PWP. It doesn't get used very much, but it is another knife in
the drawer that seems to work well at cutting up the veggies. It does a
great job on portraits.
Usually, though, I end up just using a two-pass sharpening in PWP. I'll use
the heavy sharpen with low setting for the first pass and then normal
sharpen with a high setting. Heavy sharpen uses 8 surrounding cells in the
matrix (like USM), whereas normal sharpen uses 4 neighboring cells (side by
side and up and down). I get a whole lot less haloing with the normal
sharpening than with the USM based settings. For what it's worth, when I do
my raw conversion, I do try to get the maximum sharpness at that time and
will typically do an equivalent USM of 0.7 pixel radius and enough to make
it visible then back off a bit.
AG
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