The printing and image trimming process is not terribly precise.
Therefore the image is always printed at a slightly larger size than the
nominal size. When the paper is die-cut it will be the nominal size but
the cut lines could appear anywhere within the bleed area. The
additional size that's added is referred to as the "bleed" and is,
AFAIK, a constant independent of print size. If memory serves me right
it's 1/8" (0.125) all around for Miller's and Mpix (a subsidiary of
Miller's). If I want to have them make an 8x10 print I crop the image
at 8.25"x10.25" to add the bleed. I also resize the full image with
bleed at their stated resolution number of 250 dpi and sharpen at that
size. That should guarantee that there will be no diddling with the
image at all.
Printing at home with your own ink jet printer does the same thing. Try
printing a 4x6 borderless image on a 5x7 piece of paper and then measure
the size of the image area. It will be larger than 4x6". The
difference you measure is the bleed added by your printer.
Chuck Norcutt
On 4/4/2012 1:57 PM, Jim Nichols wrote:
> Chuck,
>
> Can you explain the term "bleed" to me? I've seen that used in some other
> instances concerning sizing of images for book publication, but never
> understood what it meant.
>
> Jim Nichols
> Tullahoma, TN USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chuck Norcutt"<chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Olympus Camera Discussion"<olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 12:49 PM
> Subject: Re: [OM] And yet another dog photo
>
>
>> If I can't see the halos at 33% they don't exist. When I send the
>> images out for printing I tell them not to diddle with the image at all;
>> no sharpening, no color correction, no nothing. But I also prepare
>> individual print files for each print size and also make the image
>> slightly oversize by the stated bleed amount so they don't have to do
>> any resizing at all.
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt
>>
>>
>> On 4/4/2012 11:23 AM, Ken Norton wrote:
>>>> You don't. Lightroom prints it. If you're sending to a lab such as
>>>> Miller's,
>>>> you either let them do the output sharpening, or you do it yourself.
>>>> It's
>>>> really not all that big a deal.
>>>
>>> The stuff I send to Millers has a very specific sharpening method
>>> applied. I sharpen to get the pixels themselves as sharp as possible.
>>> Of course, this is usually done during conversion or first step after
>>> conversion. It's usually some form of 0.6 radius USM cranked up to the
>>> hilt. Then in editing I do whatever sharpening to correct for ID10T
>>> errors. In my finalizing process, I'll do a little bit of LCE to get
>>> the edges to pop and give it some 3D life. Finally, I go through one
>>> last tiny bit of pixel sharpening to correct for any mushiness as a
>>> result of the editing. But I NEVER output sharpen and I NEVER have
>>> halos.
>>>
>>> The reason is that Millers always resizes the image through there
>>> print management system. It is doing additional sharpening as a result
>>> of that process.
>>>
>>> Because of it, I don't do any resizing or resampling (except in
>>> extremely rare circumstances) of the images. I send them all in at the
>>> same size and let the RIP take care of everything because a particular
>>> image might be in wallets, 5x7s, 8x10s, 11x14s and also used in the
>>> album. All on the same order.
>>>
>>> To the halos comment. The problem with Chuck's "crunchy" output
>>> sharpening is that it results more often than not in halos. I really
>>> really really really really dispise halos. Halos can make in image
>>> appear sharper, but I'd rather not go that far. It's a sign that
>>> somebody didn't know when to stop.
>>>
>>> AG
>> --
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>>
>
>
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