Thanks for the refinement. I'm not sure this time detail is significant
for identification if handed a stack of mixed prints all stuck together.
However, in my friend's case they had many albums all arranged
chronologically. Attempting to peel the plastic pages away from the
prints underneath would usually peel the emulsion off the print. If
these were non-RC prints (and many were old enough to be so) then
perhaps freezing would have allowed much easier removal.
Chuck Norcutt
On 4/24/2012 6:35 AM, marc simon wrote:
> Hi all,
> during my "military duty" in 1972 I spent some time in a Belgian Air
> Base: I was in charge of the processing of the film of a drone they
> where developing and the paper used for the prints was a RC Kodak
> paper...I've found an old box with some prints and the reference in the
> box is Kind-1594...and it was B&W...:)
> regards
> marc
> bois-de-villers Belgium
>
> Le 24/04/2012 02:22, Bill Pearce a écrit :
>> RC paper for color preceded B&W by at least 5 years. It was an urgent thing
>> for color, as it made life much easier for mass production, and made the
>> introduction of smaller, roller transport machines feasible. I remember
>> working in a commercial studio in the mid seventies, and most all we printed
>> in B&W was on fibre, and the color was all RC. Thanks to that experience,
>> there's nothing in B&W that pleases me more than a ferrotyped print.
>>
>> Bill Pearce
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Chuck Norcutt
>> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 6:38 PM
>> To: Olympus Camera Discussion
>> Subject: Re: [OM] RC papers and recovering photos from flood damage
>>
>> Thanks. Makes perfect sense. I didn't realize that RC papers went back
>> to 1968. I'd have guessed a decade later.
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt
>>
>>
>> On 4/23/2012 6:44 PM, Paul Laughlin wrote:
>>> I found this. Might help.
>>>
>>> *Identifying and judging the age of chromogenic prints *
>>> As already noted, when in doubt a color photo is probably chromogenenic.
>>> Chromogenic images often fade and discolor with age, sometimes gaining a
>>> magenta tone. Vintage examples are on fiber based paper. This means that
>>> the back of the photo has a papery, fibery feel, as opposed to the
>>> plasticy feel of recent color photos you own. The front (where the image
>>> is) of these vintage chromogenic photos are usually glossy. This fibery
>>> back with glossy front is unique in color photos to the chromogenic
>>> photos.
>>>
>>> In 1968 Kodak introduced resin coated paper for color photos. Resin
>>> coated paper has that glossy, plasticy feel on back. This means that if
>>> a photo with a 1950s image (James Dean, Korean War) is on resin coated
>>> paper, it is not vintage. Many modern reprints of both black& white and
>>> color photos are identified as the paper is resin-coated. A quick and
>>> simple ways to identify many reprints.
>>>
>>> It is from:
>>> *Photograph Identification Guide
>>> *by David Rudd Cycleback
>>>
>>> Hope it helps.
>>>
>>> Will try to check with "Operation Photo Rescue" and see what they say.
>>> Right now I am a bit tired, Just returned from buying a replacement
>>> vehicle, as we had a transmission failure Saturday and it would cost
>>> more to repair than the vehicle is worth. VBG And that transmission had
>>> less than 10,000 miles on an AMCO rebuild. Out of warranty based on time.
>>>
>>> Paul in Portland OR
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 4/23/2012 1:45 PM, Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>>>> Becci said her experience in Japan had shown that many prints that are
>>>> stuck together can be easily separated if they're first frozen. She
>>>> says ice crystals form in between the prints and push them apart. But,
>>>> she continued, there is one big cavaet... don't do that with RC papers.
>>>> If you do, instead of pushing the prints apart, the ice crystals will
>>>> push the emulsion of the RC print right off the paper and thus totally
>>>> destroy it. That's apparently a side effect of the paper's base being
>>>> unable to absorb water. That may be a clue to the answer to my question
>>>> which is: Does anyone know how to definitively identify an RC print?
>>>> Finally, maybe it doesn't matter if you're presented with a thick stack
>>>> of different kinds of prints all stuck together. I wish I'd thought to
>>>> ask her at the time.
>>>>
--
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