I'll have to check everything but especially the sleep time and
stabilizer settings. The stabilizer might be on all the time. I
started with raw only but, after downloading my first set of shots, I
found that the only preview of the image viewer (wihtout converting) was
a thumbnail. Canon includes a small JPEG within the raw file and I
assumed Oly did as well. Not true so I've added a small JPEG to the mix.
It's funny that you should mention the settings I've used with the A1 to
maximize battery life. That didn't compute. The A1 gives good battery
life and the camera is setup exactly the way I want it. I never gave
battery life a bit of consideration because I didn't have to.
Chuck Norcutt
On 2/5/2013 10:34 AM, Ken Norton wrote:
>> That's even better. Now I just need to figure out how to get as much
>> battery life as you're getting.
>
> Chuck, consider some of the settings you used with the A1 to maximize
> battery life with it. The E-M5 is just a new/shiny A1.
>
> Some setting adjustments can make a pretty big difference:
> 1. Screen/viewfinder auto on/off
> 2. Sleep time
> 3. Image-Stabilization exposure-only
> 4. Image review time/off
> 5. File type (raw, jpeg, raw+jpeg...)
> 6. Image-processing extras
> 7. Auto-focus exposure-only or half-press activation
>
> The important thing to remember is that battery life has very little to do
> with the number of exposures, but almost entirely to do with "run time" of
> the camera. Anything you can do to put the camera to sleep between pictures
> will extend the battery life.
>
> The obscure and obsoleted DMC-L1 is a camera that also eats batteries for
> lunch. I usually have all my cameras set for 1 minute sleep time. It just
> becomes an awareness thing where if I anticipate taking a picture, I'll
> "prime the pump" by tapping the shutter-release to wake it up or keep it
> awake. With careful sleep management and avoiding unnecessary chimping, I
> can go over 600 pictures and an entire event on a single battery. It seems
> like for all of my cameras that use these 1400(ish) mWh batteries, that I
> get about two hours of camera run time, regardless of how many pictures are
> taken in that period.
>
> Where things get dicey with cameras like the E-M5 is that you have to have
> it on much more than a camera like the E-1 or your OM-5D. With the older
> tech cameras you can usually view, zoom and even focus (usually, unless
> fly-by-wire lenses) with the camera off. All that time spent carefully
> framing the scene can be spent with the camera off. But the E-M5 has to be
> on otherwise the viewfinder is black.
>
> If I were you, I'd be base-lining the camera. Turn it to all of your normal
> settings, but disable the sleep function and display auto-off. Give it a
> full charge and set it on the dining room table. Turn it on and let it just
> sit there. See how long it takes for the battery to discharge. That will be
> your normalized camera run-time expectation.
>
>>From this base-line run-time, subtract:
> 25% for operations.
> Up to 50% for near freezing temperatures.
> Up to 20% for IS operations.
> Up to 20% for display use
> Up to 10% for power-everything lenses.
>
> I say "up to" because not all activity is created equal. Once you have your
> base-line and some temperature-based depletion curves, you can have a
> pretty good expectation of battery life. It just then becomes a matter of
> managing the power.
>
> Power management is something that I do a lot when shooting a long event or
> am on a multi-day photo trip where power plugs are rare.
>
> I think that the real solution to this battery life issue is obvious:
> OM-3Ti.
>
>
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