If you send him the parts list and the links to the 2 YouTube videos
showing removal of the top and bottom plates maybe John will fix it for
you. Removing the bottom plate is straight forward and the top plate is
pretty easy but does have a thing or two that you must know about ...
like alignment of the pin under the ASA/shutter speed dial for both
disassembly and reassembly.
The shutter clock work probably just needs cleaning with alcohol or some
other solvent. Watch the video on shutter and removing the bottom
plate. Note how the wind crank needs to be pushed in to activate the
meter and how that causes a sliding plate to contact the battery. That
may give you a clue on what's going on with the meter when you rotate
the camera. Are you causing the problem by pushing/pulling on the wind
lever (turning the meter on and off) when you rotate the camera?
Note that the manual INSISTS on using a silver oxide battery and not
alkaline. Oly mentions it but doesn't insist like it should. Alkaline
for the Mamiya and OMs leads to very short battery life and inaccurate
readings as the voltage drops on the battery. The characteristic of
mercury and silver oxide batteries is that voltage remains very stable
even as the battery runs down. These batteries were specified for these
cameras since the cameras do not have voltage regulators.
Chuck Norcutt
On 2/13/2016 3:43 PM, Richard Lovison wrote:
I'm very handy at fixing things but the 500DTL I think I'll leave to a
professional. The prism definitely needs cleaning, the shutter speeds,
especially the slow ones, are way off and the light meter even though it
functions, the needle changes its position when moving the camera from a
horizontal position to a vertical one. It's weird.
I just picked up my OM1 that John had worked on some years back and it
handles and functions just like it did all those years ago. It's like
new. I miss my champagne OM4.
--
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