Not to dispute - in the least - what you say about OM batteries, Moose, but
Chris T is concerned about another brand of camera (didn't know there was
such a thing!).
>From long ago I recall that Spotmatic metering circuits were "different",
and courtesy of pentaxforums I note:
"The Spotmatic's bridge circuit shows correct exposure when the same current
flows in each side of the circuit. The meter shows the difference in voltage
between the two middle points of the bridge and at correct exposure no
current flows through the meter so the needle rests at its centre point. X -
Y = 0 when X = Y. The actual value of X and Y is irrelevant. So this
circuit will work well with mercury, alkaline and silver cells. You could
even wire up a couple of potatoes with iron and copper nails as conductors
if you wanted to!" Let's assume the ME is the same!
Regrettably, the post does not discuss the relative merits of Yukon Gold and
Idaho Russet in this application.
Piers
-----Original Message-----
From: olympus
[mailto:olympus-bounces+piers.hemy=gmail.com@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Moose
Sent: 21 February 2017 00:31
To: Olympus Camera Discussion
Subject: Re: [OM] Pentax ME Super
On 2/20/2017 2:52 PM, Ken Norton wrote:
>> Before I donate this to Tempe Camera, is there anyone here who
would like to have it? It's surprisingly clean, just needs some repair.
> Not really interested. I donated another Pentax recently that had a
> similar situation. Actually, donated two Penti as the other worked,
> and had a couple of lenses.
>
> As to the batteries, I'm not going to dis the alkalines quite as much
> as Polarity Moose. They work and work fine--for a while. The problem
> is that they voltage drop so much that by the time they discharge to
> 50%, they are below the acceptable voltage for the cameras. In the
> case of the OM-2S, that battery life is about two days of use, or two
> weeks of idle time.
Perhaps it's slightly different on different bodies. On 2n and the various 4
bodies, the trouble is that they develop
enough internal resistance that they will drop below critical voltage under
the load of the shutter, causing the
exposure to fail and leave the mirror up, then bounce back with enough
voltage to look good with the test light. Use the
manual reset to get the mirror back down. Or take the batteries out, wipe
them and put them back in, by then back to
voltage, so the mirror comes down. Then the metering seems fine, a shot, or
even two work OK, then it fails again.
Just too unreliable/unpredictable.
Caught With Volts Down Moose
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