TAKO. INTERNET SEIT 1996.
Olympus-OM

Re: [OM] Where to sign?

Subject: Re: [OM] Where to sign?
From: Bill Pearce <billpearce@xxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2018 02:39:12 -0500 (EST)
You, sir, are a wise man. 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Paul Braun" <pbraun42@xxxxxxxxx> 
To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
Sent: Friday, January 5, 2018 3:55:59 PM 
Subject: Re: [OM] Where to sign? 

My wife and I have run into this a few times - we were on a cruise and went 
to one of the art auctions. We ended up buying a few things, and had to 
argue because the gallery wanted to frame it in the big, heavy, gaudy 
carved gold frame. That's totally NOT our style. Most everything we have 
hanging, from photos to animation cels to lithos are in fairly simply, 
plain frames that occasionally are in a color that is complementary to an 
element in the image. The one that we lost on was an Alexandra Nechita 
signed litho, but we at least got it in an antiqued silver without a bunch 
of gaudy carving. I hate seeing an 8x10 canvas framed in a heavy gold 
carved frame that's like 3" wide. The image gets totally lost. All of our 
Hirschfeld lithos are in plain, simple black frames. 

On Fri, Jan 5, 2018 at 3:49 PM, Bill Pearce <billpearce@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 

> "A silver paint pen worked well for me, signing the bottom right of the 
> print itself. A long while since I sold prints. If I was doing it again, 
> I’d probably sign the mount instead. " 
> That has also worked for me, but those things can be clog prone. I will 
> never sign the mount. If it's reframed, now or later, your signature is 
> gone, gone, gone. And it looks untidy. 
> 
> I used to choose frames very carefully to complement the picture. Whenever 
> I’ve seen one of my pictures in someone’s house it’s normally been reframed 
> - often in a style that is the very opposite of “less is more”. 
> Yup. I prefer the so called museum frames with a substantial matte. The 
> gold and double matte's leave me cold. but I believe in less is more in 
> framing, food and decorating. 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> 
> From: "Mike Bloor" <admin@xxxxxxxxxx> 
> To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
> Sent: Friday, January 5, 2018 1:19:25 PM 
> Subject: Re: [OM] Where to sign? 
> 
> A silver paint pen worked well for me, signing the bottom right of the 
> print itself. A long while since I sold prints. If I was doing it again, 
> I’d probably sign the mount instead. 
> 
> I used to choose frames very carefully to complement the picture. Whenever 
> I’ve seen one of my pictures in someone’s house it’s normally been reframed 
> - often in a style that is the very opposite of “less is more”. 
> 
> Mike 
> 
> 
> Seratel Ltd. 
> 
> Computer Systems for 
> Electronics Manufacturers 
> 
> Mulrany, Westport, 
> Co. Mayo, Ireland. 
> 
> www.seratel.ie 
> www.ReelaMounts.com 
> 
> Telephone: + 353 98 36244 
> Fax: +353 98 36024 
> 
> > On 5 Jan 2018, at 18:30, ChrisB <ftog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> > 
> > :-) 
> > 
> > Thanks for that insight, Jan, and for the advice ref the signatures. I 
> had already printed the photos when I asked so I’ve signed on the back in 
> fat, soft pencil. However, now that you’ve mentioned the metallic colours I 
> might have them handy in case my customer had her heart set on “Chris 
> Barker” scrawled across the print itself. 
> > 
> > Would printing the signature as part of the printing process be infra 
> dig? 
> > 
> > In future I might leave a wider margin for the pencil, depending on how 
> the scrawling goes . . . 
> > 
> > Chris 
> > 
> >>> On 5 Jan 2018, at 18:23, Jan Steinman <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> >>> 
> >>> From: ChrisB <ftog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:ftog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>> 
> >>> 
> >>> Well, I?m about to sell my own prints for the first time ever. 
> >> 
> >> Congratulations! 
> >> 
> >> You’ll know you’ve REALLY arrived when your work sells in the 
> third-party market. At one art festival, a fellow photographer rushed over 
> to me in mock excitement, and said, “Hey! I just discovered there’s a 
> third-party market for my work!’" 
> >> 
> >> “Really? Congratulations!” I sincerely exclaimed. 
> >> 
> >> “Yea, see that $300 print over there?” he said, pointing back at his 
> tent, “Someone just told me he scored one of those in a garage sale for 
> $10! He thought it was a GREAT PRICE for the frame!" 
> >> 
> >>> It?s a bit daunting because the charming buyer has asked for my 
> signature on each of the prints… Where do you think I should sign, with 
> what medium (pencil, fibretip . . .) and what should I sign? Should it be 
> my full name or my normal signature? 
> >> 
> >> I signed anything bigger than 4”x5” with my “bank signature,” first and 
> last name. On smaller prints, I used my initials. 
> >> 
> >> My medium was a back-printed polyester film, so it was a bit of a pain 
> finding something that worked well. Most things just didn’t stick. Sharpie 
> stuck, but was basically invisible. (As displayed at the Marylhurst Art 
> Gallery: http://www.bytesmiths.com/Products/2000.02.22-08-640.jpg < 
> http://www.bytesmiths.com/Products/2000.02.22-08-640.jpg> ) 
> >> 
> >> I ended up using opaque paint pens. They are the aluminum cylinders 
> that rattle, with a shaker inside, and a pressure-sensitive tip. They are 
> available in a wide variety of colours, so you can always choose something 
> that shows up and complements. I tended to use gold and silver. I think 
> this had a very professional look, much better than a Sharpie. You can find 
> them in artists’ supply stores and better stationery stores. 
> >> 
> >> They’re a bit of a pain to use. You need to hold it vertical, without 
> much slant, and you need to make sure the paint is flowing well. Sign a 
> blank or two first! With a matte finish (like cotton rag water colour 
> paper), they tend to gum up and jam. 
> > 
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