On 1/17/2018 1:40 PM, Jan Steinman wrote:
From: Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>
On 1/16/2018 4:20 AM, Mike Bloor wrote:
Can anyone point me to a guide on using my OM-D E-M5 II with MF lenses? I'm not
finding the instruction manual at all
helpful.
First, you need to set the camera to shoot without a lens attached, an AF lens, that is.
Menu *C, "RlsPriority S" set to
“On"
Do you need to do that with the OM-D line? I heard you needed to do that with Pannies,
but I don’t recall doing (or seeing) such a setting on my OM-D E-M1.2.
Did you actually check? That is true ONLY IF "RlsPriority S" set to “On". Just tried it with an E-M5 II. With that
setting off, pin pushed in, nada.
You only need a lens adapter that allows the lens-lock pin to pop out. Take the
lens off, and depress the lens-lock pin with your finger, and it will take an
image with NO lens whatsoever.
I knew I'd get in trouble if I shortcutted. The setting actually is about focus, but has the effect of not allowing
exposures with manual lenses if "Off". From the E-M1 II manual (and identical to the E-M5 II manual):
"Rls Priority S - If [On] is selected, the shutter can be released even when the
camera is not in focus."
The E-M1.2 (at least) has one other nicety for legacy lens users: a place you can
“register” ten of your favourite manual lenses. This not only tells IBIS their
focal length, but stores the focal length, max aperture, and your descriptive text into the
EXIF data, which is invaluable for later evaluation.
New with the E-M1 II, so of course I didn't mention it in response to a
question about use of an E-M5 II.
I assign this to one of my front buttons, and put focus peaking on the other.
Then, there are two aids:
1. Magnify.
I have this assigned to the “AEL button” in the middle of the useless “1 2”
switch. I find it distracting, and rarely use it.
Mine are set so they magnify when I use the focus ring. I like it, and use it
when using an MF lens on tripod.
2. Peaking... set an Fn button to turn it on and off. I just leave it on.
You can do that with a Panny? Cool!
Huh? Where did Panny come into this?
My experience is the E-M1.2 finds EVERY OPPORTUNITY it can to turn focus peaking off! It is SO
ANNOYING, because I have things set for maximum battery life. Camera sleep? Focus peaking goes away.
Eye away from the viewfinder? Focus peaking goes away. I’ve filed an enhancement request to
have a “Focus Peaking, Dammit” global mode you can set that will turn it on and LEAVE
IT ON whenever a manual lens is detected.
With busy subjects and a wide aperture, it isn't particularly precise.
Perhaps another Panny-Oly dichotomy.
Still mystified. I was not writing about Panny, nor did I mention Panny. I was describing my experience with Oly E-M5 II
bodies.
I find it extremely precise, and excellent for evaluating DOF, as you can see
it change as you change manual aperture settings.
A difference may be that I was most recently using it with a manual f1.2 lens, and the camera body has no way, with my
bodies, of knowing the max aperture of a manual lens. Experience with a registered MF lens may be different.
and the fact that I have the following in my office, would any make a better
choice?
As Moose mentions, it depends on how much you want to invest in adapters. You can sometimes get different
ones for under $5 on evilBay. I’m building a collection, “just in case…"
I assume by "better choice", you mean higher resolution, better corners, etc?
Is this the same Moose who has been extolling the virtues of various soft-focus
techniques and equipment? :-)
Which is why I asked what Mike's definition is.
I do walk two sides of that street, Sharp, clear, focus bracketing for great DoF, and so on, and the other side, soft
focus, pin hole, nail hole, and so on, where even nature of the subject is often unclear and abstract is a virtue. Where
I'm not as comfortable is in the middle of that street - could get run down. :-)
When you’re north of about 12 megapixels, you’re collecting more information
than all but the best 35mm film and lenses could ever capture, so why worry?
Reading comments and questions about old lenses, it's clear than there are lots of folks who think old MF lenses may be
"sharper" than later MF and/or recent AF lenses. They are almost uniformly wrong, but it makes it worthwhile to define
terms, and ask what they are seeking.
"Why Worry?" Could be someone like me, who recently returned a lens 'cause it wasn't the older optically "poorer" one.
:- Again, define parameters/desires.
Each of these will have its own characteristics.
Indeed.
Personally, I’m a huge fan of legacy SPECIALTY lenses. I don’t really care for
Yet Another 50mm to play with, because my Zuiko ED 4/3rds 50/2 does all I need at that focal
length. But when it comes to super-long, super-fast, or super-close, or some combination of
those, I love my older lenses.
For starters, I find the OM Zuiko Macro 90/2 to be outstanding on micro 4/3rds. Works wonders
on the Telescoping Extension Tube, too! The TET is my “gotta have” bit of
manual kit.
TET, yes. 90/2 NO! Hated it, sold it, having it gone made me happy. If it didn't have the "Macro" designation, perhaps
I'd have liked it, although what magic it had the the 85/2 didn't I don't know. Any lens marked macro that starts to get
worse past 1:4 is blatant mislabeling. I already had 50/3.5, 135/4.5, Tammy 90/2.5 and Kiron 105/2.8, all much better
macros, so was disappointed.
I also love my collection of limited-range OM macros (135, 80, 38, and 20). I
haven’t put them through their paces on the E-M1.2 yet, but I did a study with
the E-3 that seemed to indicate that they were just as good as the 4/3rds 50/2, and
perhaps even better, when held to their optimal reproduction ratio ranges.
I have the first three, and agree. However, I use the 38 on the A7, FF, more MegaPickles, wonderful results. On
Macrophoto Stand with TET or Bellows, it's a terrific true macro set-up.
I also have a number of mirrors, from 350mm to 2000mm. Yea, mirrors have their own
“charm,” but they allow you to play with super-long perspective without
spending four figures.
I didn't like the 350. The OM 500/8 is a great lens, but I prefer the Sigma 600/8 for anything that doesn't fill the
frame. Less cropping means effective resolution can actually be higher than the Oly. The Meade 1000/11 is a good lens,
too. But in truth, all have fallen by the wayside for regular use in the face of the PLeica 100-400 (which is at least
only in the low four figures, and worth every penny.)
I went to the trouble of buying micro-4/3rds “T” mounts for them, then put the
OM T-mounts back on when I discovered the magic of focal reducers.
Why make the long ones shorter?
By all means, get a decent focal reducer if you’re going to play with legacy lenses! But they’re ~30 times
more expensive than simple adapters, so you’ll want to get the ONE for the majority of lenses you think
you’ll use. I got a truly crappy one for $60, returned it to Shamazon (who never refunded me!), and got a Kipon
Baveyes ($150), which I’ve been happy with, while wondering what I’m missing by not having a Metabones
Ultra ($450).
Another of my favourites is . . .
The Canon 55/1.2 is pretty soft wide open, but gets better fast.
I generally shoot all my legacy glass wide-open. Not many f1.2 lenses are very well regarded
wide-open, but that isn’t why people have such fast glass. Put a decent focal reducer on it,
and get as close as you can, and laugh while the FF bigots describe it as “obviously”
a FF image.
Not a FF bigot, as I don't care what others are using, only what comes out, but I do use my old, MF lenses almost
exclusively on a FF body. That way, I get all "the best of the bad." the way they were made.
If it's "character", "rendering", 'drawing" you are looking for, ya just gotta
try 'em. If it's for fun, pick the one that looks and feels good. If it's for optical quality, sell 'em
all and buy a Panny or Oly ?4/3.
One more option: sell them all and get some very unusual legacy glass, like
super-macro, super-fast, super-long, tilt-shift, mirror, etc.
Thus speaks the guy with the gear to handle eight different mounts on my A7 and
five on ?4/3, unless I've missed one. Hahahahaha.
Tell me about it! I just scored a Leica --> micro-4/3rds adapter for $5 shipped, as if
I’m ever going to afford Leica glass...
Nice Paperweight?
Where's Panny Moose
--
What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
--
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