Thanks for the kind words, Moose. I've done a lot of experimenting,
and, for me, a MF lens and zone focusing are the way to go. I have even
resorted to using short strips of tape to keep my settings from moving
as I deal with the chain link contact. My Fuji 35/2.0, used with manual
focus, works pretty well, but the lens shade just barely gets through
the fence openings. This little Soviet copy of the Zeiss Sonnar 50/2.0
makes for tight shots, but deals with the fence quite well. From
experience, I learned that a focus distance of 6 meters will work, with
apertures from f/5.6 in brighter light to f/2.8 in late evening
darkness, with ISO set to Auto.
I recently installed the latest camera firmware, and frequently use the
low speed Burst shooting mode. In last night's images, the ISO seemed
to vary a lot from frame to frame. I need to look into that, to be sure
I'm not in some kind of bracket mode.
Tullahoma, TN USA
On 5/25/2018 4:54 PM, Moose wrote:
On 5/25/2018 10:28 AM, Jim Nichols wrote:
I've heard the last hour before darkness referred to as the Magic
Hour, where unwanted details fade away and the colors prevail. I saw
that last night, and the old Soviet Zeiss Sonnar copy caught it all.
You are getting good results with it. I'm more impressed with your
ability to focus it on action than the lens itself.
There are gillions of lenses, new and old, capable of that sort of
image quality at the sizes you display, although fewer that fit your
fence criteria. I have an Industar 50-2 that's tiny and would fit the
fence. and a Zeiss Tessar T 50/2.8 that should fit. (I don't have a
fence sample at hand.)
But I'd be using an AF lens. There are a couple of primes and at least
one zoom for µ4/3 that should work with the fence.
Oh yeah, my fav. so far is the damaged fence. :-)
Lazy Focus Moose
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/