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Re: [OM] IMG: Fungi

Subject: Re: [OM] IMG: Fungi
From: Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 16:02:57 -0700
On 7/2/2018 12:22 PM, Ken Norton wrote:
If you say so, Jim.   I prefer quantity, really.
It's not the QUANTITY of the MPs, it's the QUALITY!
To a certain point. It is more a matter of the "output" than anything
else. If the output is web display, either on zone-10 or through your
favorite social media site, then 5MP is certainly going to be adequate
most of the time. If your maximum output is 11x14" or A3, then again,
the 5MP will be sufficient. Beyond that size, it's more subject-matter
sensitive.

No argument from me. I've made decent 8x10 prints from a 1.9 MP camera

I've got a LOT larger than that on occasion, but it really
gets hairy.

As a general rule, a whole lot less processing is required on E-1
images than most anything else.

I wonder about that. In my limited use, comparing the three Olys with same subjects and lens, it seems to me that the E-M5 II files are easier to process. ( I say 'easier', rather than 'less' 'cause that's easier for me to get a feel for.) But then, I have LOTS of practice with the newer camera.

I'll compare the E-1 with the 6D, <snip lots of interesting stuff>
To simplify the comparison a bit more, the E-1 file is essentially
converted with luminance applied to the colors. The 6D file is
converted with colors applied to the luminance. In other words, the 6D
file is a colorized B&W image.

Colorful imagery, but I'm not sure what it means to me. I can go around the block to left or right, but either way, I end up at home.

>From a post processing perspective, the E-1 file takes more work to
get the luminance right, but the 6D file takes more work to get the
colors right. The E-1 files are lovely in the middle brightness
ranges, but a huge pain in the highlights. The 6D has a couple stops
more luminance range to work from, but you have to crank the living
daylights out of the saturation to get it to where the E-1 is
natively.

Has so much changed from the 5D? I very seldom mess with saturation, nor did I with the 5D. I recall how almost luminous some of my first shots of poppies were.

I use LCE, Curves, Bright/Contrast, Shadow/Highlight, Levels, but almost never increase Saturation on normal subjects. It would be interesting to sit side by side and process the same Raw files . . .

This is also why Moose's red poppies turned pink and shimmery white in
the highlights.

Here I am much befuddled. I posted a shot of ORANGE poppies. No way one can know what the untouched file looked like - I messed with it. :-)

Or are you  talking about the roll-over examples of pink/lavender/purple/whatever Cyclamens I just posted? I don't seem to be able to see what you describe there. They are at zero EV, but on a slightly overcast day in the shade.

A distinct flaw in the E-1 design. You have to underexpose by two stops to keep 
that from happening.

My standard for outdoors is -0.7 EV, has been for Canon, Fuji, Oly, Panny and Sony. I often do bracket beyond that. So subject and metering method dependent, though. <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/tech/Dynamics/DR&EV.htm>

Exposed Moose

--
What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
--
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