Jim wrote:
> Seeking to use Autofocus for butterflies, I recently bought a used ZD
> 50-200 lens, second model. I am very impressed with this lens, but my
> current body choices are E-1 (5MP) or E-510 (10MP), with limited AF
> targets. I was considering purchasing a used E-3, which has 11 AF
> targets. Since you seem to be happy with your E-5, I wondered if you
> could comment on the professional follow-ons to the E-1. E-3s are
> inexpensive these days, and I am tempted.
I can talk a little bit to the E-1 to E-3 progression. The overall
performance of the "camera" itself is certainly improved. It's faster
in every regard. The screen is larger, clearer and more usable. The
viewfinder image is also much bigger. MUCH bigger.
Overall, I'm not very impressed with the IBIS. It helps, but is
certainly a first-generation effort as compared to the miracle-worker
IBIS in the latest/greatest OM-D bodies. I would rate it as probably
better than no image-stabilization, but frankly, I think the E-1 has
such a better grip on it that the inherent stability of the E-1
matches the stabilized E-3. The E-5 is definitely much better in this
regard.
The sensor itself is another topic of discussion. The noise is easily
addressed to relative satisfaction in Lightroom, but at higher ISOs or
long exposers, there is some minor banding. I also experience banding
with my 6D, so it's not JUST the E-3 that has it. But the E-3 is
problematic at times. The biggest issue with the E-3's sensor is how
it handles clipping. There is zero forgiveness and it's pretty brutal
with the highlights. And the transition to clipping isn't linear
across all three color sensels as is the E-1. But unlike the E-1, you
really can't do shadow recovery. The E-3 requires more exposure
discipline.
That said, the E-3 images do allow for some of the more extreme
manipulations like the E-1 and L1. I can't get away with nearly as
much as I can with the other two cameras, but I can definitely do more
than I can with the 6D. If you try to create a false reality in color
saturations, the E-1 and L1 images are still the best in that regard.
For straight exposure and straight processing, the in-camera images
are very close to "done". I don't have to do much other than adjust
for my own signature look. The greens and reds still have a good pop
to them without looking cartoonish. The blues are a vast improvement
over the E-1, as is the reduction of the halo between high-contrast
colors at edges. For example, red rose petals against green leaves.
The E-1 will give a halo at the edge, the E-3 is better behaved, but
will still halo if you crank highlight and shadow recovery up.
AG Schnozz
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