On 15 Dec Ray Moth wrote:
=====================================================================
Hey, Brian, I know you don't mean me but I'm gonna speak up anyway ;-)
For fill-flash, you might like to try using the T32 in auto mode,
rather than TTL mode. Select 'manual' mode on the camera, shutter speed
1/60 (or slower) and a lens aperture that is 1 stop smaller than the
flash auto setting you have selected - there should be a choice of 3
settings on the flash. E.g., if you set the camera to 1/60 at f/11, set
the flash auto setting to f/8.0. What this basically does is to make
the flash give enough light for a wider lens aperture than you are
actually using. Thus the flash intensity will be less than
theoretically needed but enough for fill-flash. You need to use the
camera's meter to ensure that the shutter/aperture selection is right
for the brighter areas of the subject (probably the background), which
may be difficult if you are using a fast film (ISO 200 or more); you
may then be forced to use a neutral density or polarizing filter to get
an aperture/shutter speed combination that brings you within the flash
auto range. I hope that's clear? :-O
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Thank you Ray. I think that your approach is fine if nothing is
moving in the scene (including the background) but I do not think it gets
over the problem of using a slow aperture if there is. My approach is
usually to start with the camera on auto and the flash switched off to
determine the aperture which would apply at 1/60sec. I then switch the
flash on and reduce the aperture by at least two stops and take the picture
using TTL auto.
I have used this technique outdoors on a wet afternoon
photographing rock strata when I want to minimise streaks from rain and
signs of swaying tree branches, and indoors when chasing grandchildren. In
the latter case my approach has the advantage that it also overcomes the
need to use filters to cope with artificial light. I agree that it is not
strictly fill flash, rather a drastic form of supplementary flash which
uses an exposure corresponding to the flash duration instead of 1/60s.
Do the 280 or 310 flashes enable one to use true fill flash like a
modern P&S without a slow exposure? (I do not seem to be able to get into
the flash photo group data on Hans' site at the moment). Which cameras
support them?
Incidentally, my original posting was actually intended as a
contribution to answering a list members question for guidance on the
merits of the different Olympus flash units, but I need further education
myself.
Brian
UK
brian.gray@xxxxxxxxxxx
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