----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Gwinn" <joegwinn@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
In the absence of a lightproof room then a changing bag will work well. Do
it sitting down though and make sure you put EVERYTHING you need in it
before you break open the film canister!
Regarding developing tanks. Stainless steel ones, although very robust and
well made ( they should last a lifetime) are VERY difficult to load. Also,
because of the very nature of them, they can be very difficult to control
the temperature of the chemicals within as if they are held in the hands,
the very heat from your hands can increase the temperature within quite
considerably, also, if you,are working in a cold place, they lose heat very
quickly. Having tried just about all of them over many years, I prefer
either the Patterson or Jobo plastic tanks. Remember also that the higher
temperature you develop at, the more critical the time becomes.
Providing your methods are consistent, you can basically do as you like, but
personally, I tend to stick to three or four developers and always use the
same temperature (68 degrees f) I always use the manufactures recommended
developing times, after all, they have spent countless hours doing all of
the research for us, it seems a little stupid not to take advantage of this
hard work. Incidentally, you can easily make a temperature bath out of a
reasonable size water container i.e. an old washing up bowl and an aquarium
heater/thermostat.
Steve
> As for the changing bags, I always used them in a relatively dark closet,
so I never had any problem with light leaks while putting the film in the
daylight tank. Or, I did the deed in a dark closet without the changing
bag. Do it after dark, and put a dark towel along the bottom of the door to
block light. Or, set the chosen closet up with a dark curtain over the
door.
>
> I tried various developing tanks over the years, and none worked better
than the stainless steel (Nikkor?) tanks. I think they're still sold. The
plastic tanks caused me no end of trouble, and were eventually discarded.
>
> Loading the metal tanks in the dark took some practice with junk film in
the light, but isn't hard.
>
> My agitation protocol is as follows: After the developer (or whatever) is
poured in, I bang the tank down on the table three times. Thereafter, once
every thirty seconds, I turn the tank upside down then right side up three
times, and bang the tank down on the table three times. (The stainless
steel tanks had a cap and would not leak when held upside down, though it's
a good idea to have a finger holding the cap in place.) All this ensures
uniform development, and knocks the air bubbles loose so they cannot cause
spots.
>
> I generally developed at room temperature, or perhaps 75 degrees
farenheit, so the development times were say five minutes, and timing and
pouring and the like were not so critical.
>
> The main thing is to have a protocol and follow it consistently.
>
>
> Joe Gwinn
>
>
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