Still, it is nice to have that little needle in the OM1, which
indicates how much you over/underexpose when "twiddeling the knobs"
on the outside of the camera. The procedure of looking through the
viewfinder, getting a reading of the light-meter, taking the camera
from the eye to "twiddle the knobs" and then back to compose just
seems silly. However that is how it is in manual mode OM10-20-30-40.
In my not so humble opinion, the build-in meter on the 10-20-30-40 us
almost useless for manual exposure mode, since it causes that silly
movement of the camera from the eye to check how the "knobs" have
been "tweedled".
I'd still say that the viewfinder of the OM1 is optimal for learning
to "tweedle the knobs", since it gives feedback on how the
"tweedeling" affects what the camera assumes to be correct exposure.
The double-digits do not give such feedback.
The double-digits, I guess, were designed for being primarilly used
in apeture-priority auto mode, where the feedback in the viewfinder
(the shutter speed selected by the camera) is absolutely appropriate.
--thomas
I used an OM10 for several years, and then an OMPC, and was quite happy in
my simplicity and innonence. That was before I found this list. You're
right, it is not as nice for manual exposures as the OM1n I now have, but it
can be worked around. However, I find now that I use an OM2s almost
exclusively, and about 950f the time in manual mode. I think I can get
equally good pictures with most any of the OM bodies, but some are a lot
more fun and easier to use.
Wayne
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