I have one point concerning the spot metering of OM2sp. Since OM2sp
has a full stop shutter, you need to adjust the aperture to get the
right exposure. That means you need to work at shutter piority mode,
that does not work for me, I like aperture priority, it also does not
work with my newly acquired Zuiko 500mm, it only have one aperture ;-)
With a OM4, just aim and push the button then the right exposure is
set.
C.H.Ling
T.Clausen@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> Reuben,
>
> On Wed, 11 Oct 2000, Reuben Acciano wrote:
>
> > One body? 4Ti, no question. If your ligthing changes during exposure (as is
> > frequently the case with either the "magic hours" or when I'm shooting
> > bands, only an electronic shutter will do. Of course, I'd be packing a 3 or
> > 2N for just in case it dropped to 20 below outside, but then, living in
> > Perth - it's not likely to happen anytime soon ... right, Andrew, Wayne? :)
>
> Clearly you are confused ;) You meant to say that you wanted to take the
> OM2s/p....
>
> No, seriously, I love my OM4's, and I think that they are great
> cameras. However using almost exclusively spot metering, and most often
> finding one such metering to be sufficient, the OM4 is a bit annoying,
> requiring that I press a button (which I seems to never be able to find
> easilly when the camera is mounted with a winder) to do spot-metering. So,
> there....when the light conditions are changing rapidly, the OM4 gets
> really annoying, requireing me to fumble often to find the
> "spot" button. Even without the winder, this seems to be an unnatural
> operation to me.
>
> So in rapidly changing light conditions, I would - without a doubt - take
> the OM2s/p. The multi-spot capacities of the OM3/4 are usefull too - but
> not when you need to make seperate measures every so many frames.
>
> >
> > On another note -does anyone have any relevant - in use - info on the value
> > of an OM-30 (OM F) as a backup body?
>
> Well, I have one. Bought it many years ago, and has had (at most) one film
> through it per year.
>
> > I've found a cheapie ... everything
> > seems to work and the build quality is peachy keen. I also like the finder -
> > it reminds me of a 2S I had once (longing sigh).
>
> What? You mean that you HAD such camera and decided to part with it?????
> I find it hard to believe that you think the viewfinder is like the OM2s,
> though...
>
> > Can anyone tell me if the
> > "in-focus indicator" is worth anything at all?
>
> Well, having an OM30, I can shed a little light on that, at least.
>
> The OM30 is - imho - an OM20 with the "in-focus-indicator". As such, the
> camera is build for apeture-priority exposure, with optional manual
> settings. That is to say: the viewfinder shows the shutter speed
> used in auto-mode for the current apeture. In manual mode, the
> viewfinder shows the reccomended shutter speed for the current apeture,
> but it is up to you to manually check if the shutter speed is in fact set
> to what is reccomended. There are no indicators of over/under-exposure in
> the viewfinder (contrast to the OM2s/p, which in manual mode has an
> LCD-bar, simulating the meter of the OM1 and in auto, an LCD-bar
> simulating the meter of the OM2 in auto mode). This makes (imho) the
> camera less usefull in manual mode.
>
> Further, in dark conditions, the LED's in the OM30 do not illuminate the
> shutter speed numbers - they are next to the numbers. That means, that
> when it is dark, it is actually impossible to see what shutter speed the
> camera has selected. Of course, experience with the camera will help you
> here, but I still find it a weak point.
>
> As for the in-focus indicators, they are usefull - at least so my spouse
> says. Being more used to manual focus (and prefering such....yes, I also
> had a N*kon F5 et. al, but never came to an agreement with the AF-system
> on what actually should be in focus, so I cleverly parted with the
> beast....it didn't take zuiko's either) I would like to add, that the
> focus indicators work excellent in daylight and where the image is nice
> and contrasty - but not very well in dim or dark light conditions or when
> the image lacks contrast. (No, I have no clue what system the in-focus
> indicators use, I just have observations of my own from using the camera).
>
> In short, the in-focus indicators are excellent for focusing under the
> same conditions as where the split-field/micro-prism are excellent.
>
> The camera is a battery hog - worse than any other OM's. It takes 5 cells
> (don't remember which, but I assume SR44), which it can eat in a day if it
> is left turned on (the focusing system apparently uses lots of
> batteries). Sadly, left turned off, the camera can still eat batteries, so
> I have made a habit of always opening the battery container and swinging
> out the batteries whenever the camera is not in use. Whenever, meaning
> even if I just put the camera in a bag to rest for an hour.
>
> Ohh, and running out of battery renders the camera useless. If you try to
> shoot, you will get the mirror locked in a wierd position - no manual
> override (like the "b" or "60" on the s2/p or 4) will get it
> unlocked. Fresh batteries, though, will cure the problem.
>
> Concluding the review with a summary: the OM30 is a decent, two-digit
> Olympus camera, for all the good and bad things there are to say about
> it. As a "point-and-shoot" camera with interchangeable lenses it is good,
> and it is easy to hand to someone who is not MF-familiar and say "just
> turn the focus ring until the green light comes on". Under normal
> conditions, run in full-auto-mode, the camera makes for good pictures. For
> more advanced photography, where manual mode is required, the camera (as
> all two-digit bodies) is more troublesome to use than what I appreciate.
>
> That said, the OM30 is the only two-digit body I have not parted with
> (never had a 40, though). It is a funny little body which I almost
> exclusively use for color-films (hence the low film-count).
>
> > Is this a primitive version
> > of the system in the Contax RX?
>
> No idea, I never owned a Contax....ohh, great, thanks for pointing that
> out...now I have to go shopping ;(
>
> > Or is it a marketing irrelevance bought in
> > to draw attention away from the crappy AF lens this body was supposed to be
> > matched with?
>
> Never owned the 35-70AF-lens, I cannot comment. However I'd be looking for
> one, just to try it out on the OM30. Haven't come across one yet for sale,
> though, and none of the Zuikoholics I know in my proximity have one ;(
>
> > Am I the only one who hates the idea of a rectangular shutter
> > release?
>
> Well, that is - in pratical usage - a minor annoyance, if an annoyance
> atall.
>
> > All else seems fine with this body so is $AUD 110.00 the good deal
> > I think it is? (That's actually including a crappy SC 50 1.8 and rubber 49mm
> > lens hood).
> >
>
> Well, I have seen them adverticed in Denmark for about USD150 with a 35-70
> (non-AF) or a third-party zoom recently. So I guess that your deal is
> attractive, and if you are looking for a "backup-body" it may be a good
> candidate. Be warned, though, that as all two-digit bodies, it is not as
> durable as their one-digit counterparts.
>
> So go out and give the lil' OM30 a good home. Just remember: the
> mechanical parts in any body (even your own, mortal one) like to be
> exercised from time to time. So even as a backup-body, take it out and
> shoot a frame or two every 3 weeks or so.
>
> > Help me out, gang.
> >
>
> Go, buy! buy! buy! ;)
>
> --thomas
>
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