----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard F. Man" <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, 12 December, 2002 03:59 AM
Subject: Re: [OM] flash and burned-out faces
> At 03:22 AM 12/12/2002 -0400, John Hudson wrote:
> > > > >The ONLY way to get exact exposure with flash is by using the
manual
> > > > >guide numbers. [snip]
> > > >
> > > >Actually, there is an even better way, although it too is manual:
Use a
> > > >flashmeter to meter incident (not reflected) light right at the
subject,
> > > >and set the camera accordingly. This is *very* reliable, and cannot
be
> > > >fooled by bright faces or dark backgrounds.
> > >
> > > OK, so how would I fire a on camera flash like the F280 and trigger
the
> > > light meter? I understand how to do this with Studio flash but not
shoe
> > > mount flash!
> >
> >The flash meter route pre-supposes that one can control the power output
of
> >the flash gun. In the case of the F280 it is basically a point and shoot
> >flash with no manual over ride on power output. An on-camera flash gun
with
> >manual over ride is the Vivitar 285HV and with this flash the flash meter
> >route takes on a whole new meaning. Other than for point and shoot
> >convenience my F280 is a major disappointment considering the excellence
of
> >the camera for which it is designed.
>
> I feel like playing the game "Twenty Questions :-)" and going around in
> circles. OK, may be I am asking the Qs the wrong way, lets start again...
> first of all, this is not about fill flash, but situations that plain need
> flash...
>
> Lets say my goal is to be able to get reasonable looking flash pictures,
> w/o the frontal burnout, sounds like
> A) I should back off a bit and use a longer lens (e.g. 85mm), or
> B) If the background is deep, dial in a -0.5 to -1.5 compensation. This
> tells the camera not to overexpose the front.
>
> OK So far? Now in the quest of Flash Heaven, AND I already own a flash
> meter, AND I don't mind getting another flash, say, the Metz 54-MZ3. I can
> then:
> A) Put a reflector/diffuser and bounce away, or
> B) Use the manual GN and calculate distance, aperture and shutter, or
> C) Use the Flash meter to do what? How do I meter what the Metz-54 output?
> Is there a trigger outlet on the Metz? Or do I just press the Test Button?
In response to C)
Put the flash meter of a tripod [or have someone hold it] with the
invercone facing the flash [NOT, the camera] and as close as possible to the
subject being metered, and then connect the meter to the flash gun by means
of a cable or one of those "magic eyes".
Fire the flash and then take a reading from the flash meter. The meter will
read the f stop for the intensity of the flash. The only three variables in
the determination of that f stop reading will be: 1. flash to meter
distance, 2. the ISO rating dialled into the meter, and 3. the inherent
power of the flash gun itself as indicated by its guide number for 100 ISO.
By setting the camera at sync speed, setting the lens aperture at whatever
the meter read, recharging the flash and then taking the picture you will
have a perfectly illuminated subject where the flash comprises 1000f the
light source. Any ambient light has been factored out of the calculations
altogether.
By maintaining the same syn speed and aperture on camera BUT moving the
flash away from the subject you will dimish the flash lighting effect and
increase the impact of any ambient lighting.
The Metz-54 has a "trigger outlet" .......... it is the flash to camera
cord.
HTH
jh
>
> I feel like a blind man trying to understand what an elephant looks like
> from different sighted persons describing different parts of the elephant
:-O
>
>
> // richard <http://www.imagecraft.com>
> <http://www.dragonsgate.net/mailman/listinfo>
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