Thanks, Ken. I am keeping all of these responses in one place, for future
reference.
Jim Nichols
Tullahoma, TN USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Norton" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: [OM] Question for E-1 Users
> Joel wrote:
>
>> Also it is much easier to focus Tele lenses than WA -- which is also true
>> of
>> OM cameras and screens. Matte screens are terrible for focusing WA
>> lenses IMO.
>>
>
> I would clarify this by saying that the 2-4 and 2-13 screens for the OM
> are
> specifically troublesome for wide-angle focusing. The 1-4 and 1-13 (among
> others) is just peachy. I have found that the 2-series is particularily
> troublesome with 35mm focal length. The bokeh in the 2-series screen is
> mechanical looking due to the fine microprism design of the screen. The
> 2-series screens have no matte surface to speak off, it's entirely
> microprism. The 1-series screens mentioned above utilize a true
> ground-glass
> type of surface which responds organically to the image being projected on
> it.
>
> And that's the main point here. The old-style screens had the image
> project
> on its surface, whereas the newer-style screens the image is projecting
> through the surface. For artistic interpretitive work, I always preferred
> using the older screens, but prefer the 2-series screens for most
> professional work.
>
>
> Good luck with your decision. The E-1 is still pretty unique, though
>> it is improved upon in most ways by the E-3. I think the thing that
>> is apt to be the biggest disappointment would be the physical size of
>> the LCD and the limitation on magnification during playback.
>
>
> The issue with the playback image is that you are looking at a
> reduced-size
> JPEG image--even when you are shooting RAW. The JPEG thumbnail is
> processed
> with the settings used when the file was saved. This includes sharpening.
> If you have the sharpening turned way down the thumbnail is pretty fuzzy
> and
> worthless for judging focus, camera-movement, etc. So, if you are
> shooting
> RAW files, you can crank the sharpening up to maximum. This will give you
> a
> much more accurate representation of the file. However, DO NOT do this
> when
> shooting in-camera JPEGs. I highly recommend that you keep the sharpness
> setting set to "0" and do all your image sharpening as a final step in
> post.
>
> AG
> --
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