> From: usher99@xxxxxxx
> <<<<I?m happy as a clam with my Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II
> not sure one gets shooting aperture in exif though.
No, you don’t. But you do get the maximum aperture along with ISO and shutter
speed. So I generally shoot at least one frame wide open (per lighting
situation), then I can pretty much guess the shooting aperture for the others.
> I found the shutter in E-M1-11 a bit touchy in the store--saw that mentioned
> in some early reviews. I was told that might just be a
> pre-production issue. Do you notice any shutter issues?
What do you mean by “touchy?”
I haven’t noticed any shutter issues so far. It could be simply that my style
of shooting avoids the “rolling shutter” issue I’ve read about, which
apparently only happens with the electronic shutter, NOT the mechanical one. I
have mine set to electronic shutter full-time.
(BTW: the electronic shutter has vindicated my OM Zuiko 600/6.5, which I had
been considering dumping on evilBay, due to my inability to get clear photos on
my E-3. I wrote about that here some months ago. Apparently, that was all due
to E-3 shutter shock; it does nice, clear images on the E-M1.2 with the
> For very fast lenses, MFT still usually demands rather big and expensive
Or a focal reducer, and old, cheap, manual fast glass.
The Metabones is very highly regarded, but expensive (~$600). But you may get
to amortize that cost among numerous FF lenses that you already own.
The cheaper Kipon Baveyes ($150) seems good enough for me, and turns my OM
Zuiko 55/1.2 into a 38/0.8. The relatively inexpensive OM Zuiko 35/2 becomes a
25/1.4 “normal” lens.
The Kipon has received at least one poor review, but I’ve been using it a lot.
Haven’t done any pixel-peeping, though.
Stay away from the $60 Fotodiox reducer that Shamazon sells. You’re better off
with an old, scratched-up filter and a jar of Vasoline. I’m still awaiting my
refund for return.
:::: Jan Steinman, EcoReality Co-op ::::
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/