This is OT but are you happy with the Alien Bees? My wife was thinking of
getting them for her studio setup.
John Hermanson
Camtech Photo Services, Inc.
21 South Lane, Huntington, NY, 11743-4714,
631-424-2121, www.zuiko.com
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Norcutt" <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Olympus mail list" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxx>; <dtyler@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 6:47 PM
Subject: [OM] Re: Multiple Flash/Studio Flash
> Like Skip, I have also used from 2 to 4 T-32's as a studio flash setup.
> I don't use them indoors that way anymore as I have since purchased 4
> Alien Bees B800's (360 watt seconds) for studio use. I do sometimes use
> the T-32 studio setup outdoors with a light stand and small umbrella as
> they're more portable than the Bees and don't need AC power. However,
> I've recently put together an inverter and battery power pack that runs
> the Bee's quite nicely so I only use the T-32's now if I have to hike a
> ways from the car.
>
> Skip says that the T-32's are not very flexible as far as varying the
> power. That's certainly true compared to the Bees which are infinitely
> variable over a 5 stop range. However, a two flash head T-32 setup is
> actually more flexible than many studio and portable flash units which
> give a 3 stop range in three steps. Since the T-32 offers full and 1/4
> power the combination of two units gives 2X, 1-1/4X, 1X, 1/2X, and 1/4X
> power outputs. This is a 4 stop range in 5 steps.
>
> And the T-32 is a powerful flash. Others have recommended either the
> Vivitar 285 or various Sunpak units becasue of their flexible power
> controls. I can't disagree with that as I also own some Sunpak and
> Vivitar units. However, the T-32 is a much more powerful flash than a
> Vivitar 285 or Sunpak 383. These flash units have similar guide numbers
> to the T-32 but their guide numbers are often quoted assuming an angle
> of coverage equal to either a 50mm lens or, at best, a 35mm lens. The
> T-32's guide number is for 24mm coverage.
>
> I have compared the twin T-32 heads to a Lumedyne flash head driven by a
> Lumedyne 200 watt second power pack which has settings of 50, 100 and
> 200 watt seconds. A single T-32 matches the Lumedyne for light output
> and angle of coverage when the Lumedyne's power output is set at 100
> watt seconds. Two T-32's set at 1/4 power match it at 50 watt seconds
> and two T-32's match it at 200 watt seconds. With no diffuser
> (umbrella, etc) both the Lumedyne and T-32 fall of 1/2 stop at the edge
> of a 28mm field of view at 10 feet from the flash.
>
> The big problem with the T-32's, of course, or any small battery powered
> flash is recycle time. Skip resolves that by feeding them with a
> Quantum battery pack. I intend to try a similar solution soon by
> purchasing an SP-Systems power pack. See:
> <http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=294330&is=REG>
> These are only about 1/3 the cost of a Quantum Turbo Battery but, if you
> read the fine print, you will see that they are compatible with Turbo
> cables.
>
> Mounting two T-32's on a light stand is not difficult. I purchased a
> piece of 1" x 1/8" thick aluminum bar stock at Lowes and cut a piece
> about 10" long (it could be shorter but mine will actually accommodate 4
> T-32's with flash heads above and below the bar). I drilled three 1/4"
> mounting holes. One in the center accepts the 1/4-20 stud from a
> Bogen/Manfrotto swivel umbrella bracket (about $28 at B&H). The two
> holes on the end are for a PC to hotshoe adapter and a flash slave
> hotshoe adapter. Both are held in place with 1/4-20 brass screws.
>
> The umbrella bracket provides the attachment to the light stand and also
> holds the umbrella. The PC connection is used to fire a single flash
> and the second flash will be triggered by the slave hotshoe.
> Alternatively, the second flash can also be triggered by a short TTL
> cable between the two T-32's but you may as well use the slave shoe
> since you need something to mount the T-32 on anyhow. Testing light
> output with my meter is accomplished by triggering the flash with a PC
> cord from meter to flash or by radio signal using a cheap ($80)
> transmitter/receiver found on the bay.
>
> This photo:
> <http://home.comcast.net/~chucknorcutt/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1889104.html>
> was definitely taken with the T-32 setup described above. There is only
> on catchlight showing in the eyes but I'm pretty sure I was using both a
> main and a fill light with two T-32's in each with the second one
> probably dialed down.
>
> This one:
> <http://home.comcast.net/~chucknorcutt/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1889100.html>
> was done with one of the B800's serving as a fill light firing through
> an umbrella and powered by my self-assembled inverter and battery pack.
> <http://home.comcast.net/~chucknorcutt/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1889159.html>
>
> As Skip says, you can do this stuff without a flash meter, especially if
> you're using digital or at least have a small digital to serve as your
> "Polaroid". However, adding umbrellas & reflectors can start to
> complicate things very quickly and I consider my flash meter one of my
> most valuable assets and wouldn't be without one anymore.
>
> ps: I may have a T-32 for sale soon if my recent "fang" ever arrives.
>
> Chuck Norcutt
>
>
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